Alerique
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сообщение Naja kaouthia
ну щас у нас ни крысят особо нету, да и улиток тем более. а кстати какя температура им нужна для зимовки? говорят, они сдыхали, когда опускалась ниже 18. а на других сайтах ниже указывается. или погибшие были просто худые?
Изменено 29-12-2007 автор Naja kaouthia
видимо, проблема в том, что на самом деле должно быть НАМНОГО холоднее. при 18 у них продолжается нормальный обмен веществ.
вот кусок текста с буржуйского сайта. вкратце, здоровое откормленное животное перестают кормить и постепенно уменьшают световой день и температуру, в течение трех месяцев доводя до 55-60 фаренгейта, что соответствует 12-13 цельсия. если проблемы с языком, я могу перевести
Begin by gradually reducing their daylight hours from 12 to 10 hours, then bring it down to 8 on the new year. Also, during the cool down period I usually turn on their heat lamps for 1-2 hours each day so they can warm up a little if they want. Not everyone does this, but in the wild they often come out and forage around. They don't hibernate in that they would enter a deep slumber and not wake up for months at a time. Also, two weeks PRIOR to cooling, cease ALL feeding. You don't want undigested food left to rot in the stomach as they enter brumation (no heat to assist with digestion).
Do not handle your animals during brumation! They do not eat during brumation because they are very cold and therefore cannot properly digest food. If you handle them, they will warm up, become active, and the organs will start working full fledge (the body slows way down during bruamtion). You want them pretty much dormant the entire winter. Some breeders even put their animals in shoe box sized enclosures for the entire winter with no light. Some BTS in Australia would definitely experience this as they would go underground while the entire land is covered in deep snow. One method I use sometimes is to place my entire collection in the garage. The garage is naturally much cooler than the house during winter, and it works perfect. If you use this method, there are no questions or worries on how to cool; simply place them in the garage and you're set. The brumating temperature that works perfect for me is 50 degrees. My max brumating temperature would be probably 55-60, and my minimum would be no lower than 40. While BTS definitely experience temps in the wild colder than 40 degrees, I believe that their shelter typically would provide some warmth, and it also must be understood that not all BTS would survive a cold harsh winter. I'm not into replicating extreme conditions even if it would be accurate. One needs to understand that nature is indeed harsh and that animals do die in nature due to weather. I write this because I've spoken with some hardcore breeders who copy wild conditions to a T. It's just not necessary in my opinion. The colder the temperatures, the longer and harder your BTS will sleep. If you have a particularly warm day, this will increase the temps in the garage and you may see your BTS scurry about for a short while probably to take a quick drink. Even if your heat lamps are left on for 8 hours a day, if it's 40-50 degrees, they will probably not use them. If it warms up outside, the BTS will definitely recognize it, and will likely warm up for a bit under the heat lamp. A brief sun tan is not the same as handling. The sudden stress factor will play a role in the general disruption of your animal's winter sleep. Do your best to disrupt them as little as possible while walking in and out of your garage. Note: This is talked about later, but I strongly believe a nature CD (water, crickets, birds, etc) plays a role—it definitely makes a difference when you compare it to absolute dead silence. BTS are so aware and curious of their surroundings. I believe this includes any sound that they might hear.
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2007-12-29 добавлено 30/12/2007 00:58:21#76281
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